I'm still struggling to write about my trip to Haiti.
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| Two boys getting water near MPP |
I say "still" when in reality, I've been home a
little over a week...and I think that's the problem. I came home and was catapulted into a work
schedule so hectic, I'm not really sure how it all got done. It did, though, or it is, but in the midst of
that, it's been a hard readjustment process.
Going from talking to people who are carrying water on their heads to
interviewing predoctoral interns, and from seeing children playing with a metal
hoop and a stick to seeing children tantrum because I'm cutting their screen
time back by 30 minutes...it messes with your head, let me tell you. I avoided the grocery store for a week
because I couldn't stomach the idea of waltzing through 56 types of cereal and
3 aisles of junk food. I'm completely
serious when I say that my main meal last week was beans and rice. Something about that just felt right.
One of the hardest things, though, is answering the simple question
of "how was Haiti?"
"Haiti was life-changing," I say.
"Awwww," they
say. "That's so nice. So you liked it?"
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| Three boys and their donkey, near MPP |
And I don't know what to say to that. It's not that I didn't
like the trip...but it's just the wrong word.
I loved the trip. While
on this trip, I felt strong. I felt
brave, and confident, and at peace with myself.
I felt whole, and valued, and like I was an important piece of something
transformative. I did not feel the same
self-consciousness and fear and anxiety that is always chirping on my
shoulder. I was doing something so far
out of my comfort zone, and yet I did not feel afraid. I don't understand why that happened...and as
hard as I tried to hold onto it, it's gone now.
But it was there, for a week, and it made me feel badass. I love that I was brave, and I love that I
felt badass.
I love that this trip changed me wholly and completely. I love that my worldview is forever
changed. I love that I had the privilege
of breaking my heart open and allowing the beauty and the pain and the hope and
despair of Haiti and her people enter into my heart. I love that I saw landscapes so beautiful
that they moved me to tears, and I love that I saw landscapes so devastated
they did the same. I love this
experience in a way that you can only love something that is deep, and
personal, and painful and profound. I
love the way Haiti has burrowed under my skin and now enters my dreams in
beautiful and painful ways.
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| At school |
I love that I can sit on my couch in Maryland, cuddled under
layers of sweatpants and blankets, close my eyes, and evoke in myself the
feelings that I had while sitting on the Big Thoughts porch: feelings of peace,
and community, and a way of life that matches the beating of my heart. Feelings of discomfort, and growth, and
feeling so very small in a world that is expanding out beyond what I knew was
possible. Feelings of love and hope for
the world and her people, and feelings of disappointment, and despair, and a
heaviness that weighs on my heart and body.
All of these things, all at once: I love them because they are here, and
they are real, and they are changing me.
I love them because they
are the
world, and because I want to witness it whole-heartedly.
So when I'm asked that question of "how was Haiti? Did you like it?" I say, "Haiti
was life-changing. It was a very
amazing, and beautiful, and difficult experience." I say this because at
the water cooler, or in the bathroom at work I can't talk about how I hold in
my body this sense of overwhelming vast holiness that consists of pain, and
struggle, and beauty, and hope, and despair, and inexplicable resilience, and
hopelessness, too. It's an uncomfortable
feeling I don't know how to name or contain without tears stinging my
eyes. I don't know how to say in an
elevator speech that it's impossible for me to like the discomfort, and the despair and sadness and pain this trip
opened me to. It's hard to say that I liked seeing faces like the ones in
these pictures. It's hard to say that I liked hearing trauma, and hunger, and
thirst, and struggle, because you can't like
that. I didn't like that. But I held it in
my heart, because it is real, and because I witnessed it, and because I am
learning to hold those things.
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| Little guy at village 5 |
"S
o what was your
favorite part?," they ask me.
And I struggle with that word, too. Favorite. Like my favorite color is purple, and my
favorite ice cream is mint chocolate chip...favorite
feels like an indulgence. Favorite feels like choosing which of
the struggles I witnessed particularly appealed to me. Favorite
feels like choosing that beautiful landscape over the struggling, beautiful
people within it. There isn't just one
moment that stands out...there are slideshows of moments, and roller coasters
of emotions of moments. So many
beautiful, hard, broken open moments.
The moment, though, that I am really struggling to tell is
the story of our visit to Bassin Zim: a completely gorgeous waterfall we stood
at the foot of, and climbed to the top of and looked down. The water was this amazing color of
aquamarine that I have never seen in real-life water before. We saw the "Voodoo cave" and went
in another cave with supposed ancient drawings on the walls, and the biggest
bats I've ever seen flying in and out of holes in the ceiling of the cave. It was absolutely beautiful, and mysterious,
and refreshing to see that much water in one place after so many days of dust.
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| Bassin Zim |
This experience, though, is the only one in which I started
to cry and could not blink back the tears.
Our tour guides for this journey were children -- boys,
primarily -- that looked to be between the ages of 8 and 12 or so. These children clamored to take our hands and
to help us over the rocks and streams to the waterfall so that we would pay
them. These children reached, and
reached, and reached for whatever hand they could find to grab it, and hold
onto it, to be able to earn a dollar from us -- the white strangers.
And those faces.
Those faces. Those faces just stay with you.
The boy who took my hand introduced himself in English with
a lilting Creole accent: "My name is Eben," he said. "Take my picture. Is very beautiful."
I introduced myself, too, and he repeated my name, tripping
over the tricky vowel in the middle.
"Is very beautiful," he said again.
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| Eben |
"My parents died in earthquake," he told me. "That is my brother," he said,
pointing to another boy. Throughout our
time together, he pointed to one boy or another and named them as his brother
or his cousin -- and who knows what of his story is true. It hardly matters. What I know for sure is that he wore dirty
clothes. That the houses we passed on
the way there hurt my heart. That he
wore adult size sandals he just barely kept on his feet as he walked up the
steep hillside and over the rocks.
Before we began our ascent, he took my hand and smiled. He pointed up to the sky with his other hand
and stated, "we have one God."
I smiled.
"One God," he said again. "We have one God."
I made myself smile again.
"Yes, Eben," I said.
"We have one God."
At the end of our walk, I gave Eben the dollar from my
pocket. He walked away, rough-housing
with the other children. I wish I could
say it was playful, but another child had come up and punched Eben in the back
-- I'm guessing out of jealousy over the dollar, or perhaps a previous fight --
and Eben ran off to seek revenge.
We have one God, he
told me. One God. We have one God.
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| Another child at Bassin Zim |
When we were walking back to the vans, I stopped and looked
at the waterfall and then at the children around me. I caught the eye of a young boy -- perhaps 9
years old -- and the look in his eye, and something about his face reminded me
exactly of a young client I love. A young client who lives in one of the
wealthiest counties in the US. A young
client who has some challenges, but attends an excellent school, has parents
with advanced degrees who are able to provide him with everything he
needs. This client is so dear to me
because of his beautiful, naive, creative and inspired soul.
And this little boy here, in Haiti, with that same round
face and soulful eyes, this little boy is essentially begging for money. He is working when he should be in
school. Who knows what is story is, or
what it will be?
I couldn't help it: the tears just came, and I had to walk
away to hide them.
I keep looking at my pictures of the faces. Those faces.
And I keep thinking of Eben's words.
We have one God. One God.
We have one God.
I reside pretty firmly in the agnostic camp...and in one
sense, I absolutely agree with my little friend. Of
course we have one god, Eben, I think. We have one god that is a god of love, and
you, Eben, are loved.
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"Take my picture?"
Boys in the cave at Bassin Zim |
On the other hand, I just can't believe it. How can we have one God when that God allows
such disparities to exist in the world?
How can we have one God when I am able to get on a plane and leave this
country, and Eben will stay here, at Bassin Zim, in his too big sandals and not
enough food, fighting for money? How can
that little boy look at me, with the fire of "Seen Too Much" burning
in his eyes, and tell me with such certainty that we are blessed by the same
holy being?
I don't know, Eben, this part of me says.
I don't
know what sort of god must be up there that would deal you and all these other
little faces this hand in life.
What comes to mind now is the line from Staceyann Chin's
poem:
"I
believe God is that place between belief and what you name it.
I believe
holy is what you do when there is nothing between your actions and the truth."
- from the poem"Feminist or Womanist?"
I still don't know how to talk about my trip to
Haiti. I don't know how to answer the
questions people ask, and I don't know how to tell these stories, but I know
that it was holy. Witnessing the lives
of the Haitian people and allowing their stories to seep in through my pores
allowed me to align my heart and my actions with the truth of the world.
I don't know that I believe in the God that Eben
asserted to me so firmly, but perhaps I can believe that my god is that place
of love, and presence, and whole-heartedness that lives between belief and the
name you devise for it. My god lives in
my feelings of love and hope for the world and her people. It lives in the feelings of disappointment,
and despair, and in the heaviness that weighs on my heart and body. It is all of these things, all at once, and I
love it, because it is here, and it is real, and it is changing me. I love it because it is the world, and because I am here to witness it,
whole-heartedly.
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| Eben and friend |